- I now make my own coffee in a french press at work instead of buying it from the shop downstairs, so I no longer use a new cup and lid everyday (not to mention the money savings). The press doesn't plug in, so I am only using the same energy for the water machine that would already be used. I drink a smaller cup of coffee every day, so I drink the entire cup and it no longer bothers my stomach and I am using less water (1/3 of the water consumption in the US and Europe is used to make coffee!!).
- I ask for no bag at stores as much as possible and try to carry a bag with me. Target just came out with a great one that zips into itself so it fits in a purse. It ends up about the size of a checkbook.
- I take 3 minute showers. I really just don't have the time to take longer ones, but it still counts.
- I always turn the water off when I brush my teeth and when the girls brush theirs.
- Pants and I carpool to work.
- All our outside water comes from our well.
- I give old stuff to goodwill instead of throwing it out, if it's still usable.
- We recycle all electronics. We also now have a small plastic bin in the hall closet for compact fluorescent bulbs and batteries that need to be recycled.
- I have switched to Aveda products because they offer refill sizes and don't use pressurized sprays.
- I refuse to buy anything new until I have used up what I have. This applies to shampoo, body wash, cleaning products, hair products, makeup, and anything else I have had a tendency to purchase new when I have tons at home. I figure it's even more wasteful to throw out products that are bad (wasteful, toxic, etc.) than to just use them up. The cat's already out of the bag, right?
Showing posts with label Green Your Life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Green Your Life. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Green things I do
Since my interest sparked in greening my life, here is a list of things I'm doing right. So it doesn't seem so bad about the things I do wrong.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
The GreenSwitch
Beware, when you click on the link, Ed Begley Jr. will begin talking immediately.
Unfortunately, I was a bit misled by Ed on the cost of the GreenSwitch. The basic kit is $1125, which comes with the master switch, a thermostat, 4 wall switches, and 4 outlets. Additional outlets and switches are $88.75 each.
It's pretty easy to install, though, if you can do very basic electric work (and even I can do very basic electric work). You swap out the outlets wherever you want appliances or electrical stuff to shut off when you leave. You swap out switches wherever you want lights to shut off when you leave. The master switch gets swapped out for the switch by your point of exit/entry - it has a switch with a slider button next to it, so you keep the functionality of the switch and use the slider to shut off the power. You can also get a remote for exiting from other areas of the house.
When you leave the house, you turn off the main switch. A signal is sent to all of the switches and outlets that shuts them off, stopping all electrical "seepage". Many people don't know that most items still draw power while plugged in, even if they are turned off. Televisions, computers, and entertainment equipment are big offenders. GreenSwitch also has outlets that are half-enabled, so you can leave your Tivo powered up, but your TV, DVD, and cable box shut off completely. You can set up switches in your kitchen so the stove and microwave shut off, but the fridge continues to run.
They (the website selling the product) say the cost will be recouped in 1-2 years, but that you should expect 2. They also say that shutting down the power completely will extend the life of your appliances, electronics, and heating and air, but I imagine that's difficult to quantify.
Although the product is 3 times more expensive than I was led to believe on the show, I am still considering it. It does require some planning to stay within the 4 switches/4 outlets thing, and I might require one of those half switches for my Tivo, due to outlet restrictions. I also have to do some research on what I can have off and what I can't - can a gas range be off? Can my wireless internet, if it's running the Tivo? And which 4 light switches get turned off? The bathrooms, kitchen, and livingroom? The bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen?
And then there's that issue of $1200 just lying around...
Unfortunately, I was a bit misled by Ed on the cost of the GreenSwitch. The basic kit is $1125, which comes with the master switch, a thermostat, 4 wall switches, and 4 outlets. Additional outlets and switches are $88.75 each.
It's pretty easy to install, though, if you can do very basic electric work (and even I can do very basic electric work). You swap out the outlets wherever you want appliances or electrical stuff to shut off when you leave. You swap out switches wherever you want lights to shut off when you leave. The master switch gets swapped out for the switch by your point of exit/entry - it has a switch with a slider button next to it, so you keep the functionality of the switch and use the slider to shut off the power. You can also get a remote for exiting from other areas of the house.
When you leave the house, you turn off the main switch. A signal is sent to all of the switches and outlets that shuts them off, stopping all electrical "seepage". Many people don't know that most items still draw power while plugged in, even if they are turned off. Televisions, computers, and entertainment equipment are big offenders. GreenSwitch also has outlets that are half-enabled, so you can leave your Tivo powered up, but your TV, DVD, and cable box shut off completely. You can set up switches in your kitchen so the stove and microwave shut off, but the fridge continues to run.
They (the website selling the product) say the cost will be recouped in 1-2 years, but that you should expect 2. They also say that shutting down the power completely will extend the life of your appliances, electronics, and heating and air, but I imagine that's difficult to quantify.
Although the product is 3 times more expensive than I was led to believe on the show, I am still considering it. It does require some planning to stay within the 4 switches/4 outlets thing, and I might require one of those half switches for my Tivo, due to outlet restrictions. I also have to do some research on what I can have off and what I can't - can a gas range be off? Can my wireless internet, if it's running the Tivo? And which 4 light switches get turned off? The bathrooms, kitchen, and livingroom? The bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen?
And then there's that issue of $1200 just lying around...
Monday, August 13, 2007
Greening the Bathroom
It's time for the next installment of how to green your life without spending a killing. Today, we'll take a stroll through the john.
The nice thing about the bathroom is that you don't even have to remodel to make it more efficient. In fact, when people remodel this room, it usually becomes phenomenally less efficient (huge, jetted tubs, multiple shower heads). The higher the luxury factor, the lower the efficiency rating. So, to make myself feel somewhat better about my horrendously 70s bathroom, here goes.
The nice thing about the bathroom is that you don't even have to remodel to make it more efficient. In fact, when people remodel this room, it usually becomes phenomenally less efficient (huge, jetted tubs, multiple shower heads). The higher the luxury factor, the lower the efficiency rating. So, to make myself feel somewhat better about my horrendously 70s bathroom, here goes.
- Change out your toilet so it's low-flow, or fill plastic bottles (reuse!) with water and rocks to displace some of the water in your tank. A high-efficiency bowl and tank can cost less than $200, or just replace the tank portion for $75. 2-3 hours for tank replacement, 4-5 for full replacement.
- Place aerators on your sink and shower head. For your shower head, consider a chlorine remover as well. For both, a shut-off switch can save even more. Shower head: $88, 30 minutes. Faucet aerator w/ switch: $4.99, 10 minutes.
- If replacing shower fixtures, put in a faucet that has temperature adjustment separate from the on and off function. This allows you to turn on the water and have it ready without extra time wasted on getting the water to the right temp. Approximately $150, 1 weekend installation.
- Take shorter showers. If taking a bath, don't fill the tub so full.
- When replacing bathroom accessories, towel racks, etc., buy antique, used, or try recycled iron.
- Use bar soap instead of liquid soap - there is far less packaging and usually no plastic. Try the soap rock next to your sink.
- When buying towels, check out alternatives to cotton - organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, and linen. They might be more expensive, but they will last longer than regular cotton and take less of a toll on the earth. Often, they will also be quite a bit more luxurious. They also make alternative rugs, robes, shower curtains, and shower scrubs.
- If you have a shower rod instead of doors, opt for a fabric shower curtain instead of plastic, which may contain dangerous PVCs anyway. Hemp is naturally anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and does not require a liner - the curtain will get wet, but the water won't spray through the curtain. As with every shower curtain, pull it closed after the shower to ensure it dries out between uses.
- Clean with natural products that are earth-friendly. There is a great Minnesota company called Restore that actually allows you to refill your empty bottles at specified sites in the area. They make toilet bowl cleaner, lime scale remover, glass cleaner, and general cleaners too. They even make a safer cleaner for kids with asthma and allergies.
- Use more natural personal products - soaps, toothpaste, hair products, anti-perspirant - and use products with less packaging. Don't use anti-bacterial product, they aren't necessary. Tom's of Maine actually makes floss that's naturally waxed. Look for hair and body products online, or try Daisy Blue Naturals, a home-based sales product (like Pampered Chef). Or use Minnesota's own Aveda products.
Friday, May 11, 2007
Break it down, now
Why is the US so far behind in green living? We're all over telling people how to build green. But besides Ang and Jaysan, I don't know anyone building. (But they are building green. Yay!) So how does one start to convert their life without laying out $50-100K up front?
So I decided I'm going to start consolidate some of the tips and stuff. It helps me get my thoughts together and will hopefully help get moving. And I'm starting with windows.
For more energy efficient windows:
You can buy new windows.
-OR-
1. Check the caulking on the exterior where the windows meet the siding. If the caulking is cracked or peeling, it needs to be replaced. This can be done in a weekend for a whole house. You will need:
2. Install Low-e film on your windows. The highest rated film deflects up to 70% of summer heat, retains up to 55% of winter heat, and blocks 99% of UV rays to protect your energy bill and your furniture. Best of all, Low-e film doesn't significantly change the view. $46.07 for a 4' x 15' roll of the highest protective film from Gila. Measure your windows and buy the sizes that will fit best in width.
3. Check your insulation around the windows. Choose your oldest/leakiest window and remove a section of the trim. If there is no insulation between the woodwork and the wood, this is a prime place for air to leak in. Use insulating foam ($5.47/can) in the crevices to seal the leaks. Before starting with the foam, ensure all trim on all windows is removed, as the foam is only usable for a short time after the seal is broken. Allow the foam to dry and take a serrated knife (I used a steak knife) and cut off the excess. Replace the trim. Three or four cans of foam should work for the whole house. This may be a two or three weekend project with removing and replacing the trim. Take your time removing so you don't damage the trim. Pound out the nails and use a nail gun to replace the trim when finished to make that go faster. If no trim is damaged, this project could cost as little as $20.
4. Purchase cellular shades for your windows if your current window treatments are not as good as insulating. Aluminum blinds are the worst, so definitely consider this option if you have them. Spend a bit more and purchase custom shades so they fit as close inside the window as possible for the best insulation. Buy online and purchase the company's house blinds instead of a brand name to save more money. With cellular shades, the larger the cell, the more insulating. Ditto for the number of cells. They also come in light filtering or room darkening, so they're good for all rooms of the house. Top-down/Bottom-up option is usually worth the money also on these shades.
So there it is. If anyone knows of anything else you can do to save energy with your windows, comment here so I can add it to the list.
All prices from Lowe's.
So I decided I'm going to start consolidate some of the tips and stuff. It helps me get my thoughts together and will hopefully help get moving. And I'm starting with windows.
For more energy efficient windows:
You can buy new windows.
-OR-
1. Check the caulking on the exterior where the windows meet the siding. If the caulking is cracked or peeling, it needs to be replaced. This can be done in a weekend for a whole house. You will need:
- putty knife/scraper ($3.94)
- Caulking gun ($3.97)
- Silicone caulk ($7.98)
- Ladder to reach higher windows (variable)
2. Install Low-e film on your windows. The highest rated film deflects up to 70% of summer heat, retains up to 55% of winter heat, and blocks 99% of UV rays to protect your energy bill and your furniture. Best of all, Low-e film doesn't significantly change the view. $46.07 for a 4' x 15' roll of the highest protective film from Gila. Measure your windows and buy the sizes that will fit best in width.
3. Check your insulation around the windows. Choose your oldest/leakiest window and remove a section of the trim. If there is no insulation between the woodwork and the wood, this is a prime place for air to leak in. Use insulating foam ($5.47/can) in the crevices to seal the leaks. Before starting with the foam, ensure all trim on all windows is removed, as the foam is only usable for a short time after the seal is broken. Allow the foam to dry and take a serrated knife (I used a steak knife) and cut off the excess. Replace the trim. Three or four cans of foam should work for the whole house. This may be a two or three weekend project with removing and replacing the trim. Take your time removing so you don't damage the trim. Pound out the nails and use a nail gun to replace the trim when finished to make that go faster. If no trim is damaged, this project could cost as little as $20.
4. Purchase cellular shades for your windows if your current window treatments are not as good as insulating. Aluminum blinds are the worst, so definitely consider this option if you have them. Spend a bit more and purchase custom shades so they fit as close inside the window as possible for the best insulation. Buy online and purchase the company's house blinds instead of a brand name to save more money. With cellular shades, the larger the cell, the more insulating. Ditto for the number of cells. They also come in light filtering or room darkening, so they're good for all rooms of the house. Top-down/Bottom-up option is usually worth the money also on these shades.
So there it is. If anyone knows of anything else you can do to save energy with your windows, comment here so I can add it to the list.
All prices from Lowe's.
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